It is becoming more and more popular for well-water users to hook up to a…

WATER IONIZER!

I’ve been amazed to find out how many people all over the US, in every state, are well-water users! There’s an astounding number! I’ve also learned over the years that though wells can give you great water, there can also be some serious problems with well-water too. There’s not just one kind of well, so I’ll try to address all of the things that I’ve come across, in hopes to be able to assure all well-water users that no matter what the problem with your water [if any], we can fix it. Don’t let anyone tell you that you can’t use a water ionizer with well water. What they are probably referring to is that you shouldn’t use a water ionizer with well water if you don’t know what’s in your well water. And once you know what’s in it, you can fix whatever it is [if there is a problem] and not only can, but should, use a water ionizer with it. A water ionizer will give you lots of extra filtration and protection as long as you pre-filter it correctly.

Giving yourself an excellent and healthy source of ionized drinking water:

Do not just hook a water ionizer into your plumbing [if you're a well-water user] without doing comprehensive testing! 

Municipalities, water companies and co-ops test water frequently, and they must report at least once per year the results of those tests. If you belong to a co-op or municipality, you can get a copy of their “water quality report” either online or by calling them. Look on your water bill for the number.

If you own a well, you are probably the only one that tests your well water. And so, you’re responsible to your own health and your family’s to test at least a suggested amount of once per year. Some municipalities will test your water for you if you bring a sample in. However many don’t. The easiest way I know to test your well water if you don’t have someone to do it free for you is to use my Comprehensive Well Water Test Kit .  It’s very cheap and easy to do. It’s pretty comprehensive, and is designed for well-water in particular. With this test kit, you can find out instantly how much of each common well-water toxin you have and how this compares with the EPA guidelines. Then you send the test to me: support@alkaline-water-plus.info and request a free engineer’s analysis.

What happens, if you have something in your water that could be unhealthy, is that my water engineers will recommend the exact prefilters you need to fix the problem. Examples of common well-water toxins or problem elements are:  arsenic and lead, sulphur and iron, lime and excessive hardness,  bacteria, nitrates, and heavy metals. While your regular water ionizer filter gets most of the bad stuff out of your water, it may not get all.

Water ionizers will cause a greater concentration of certain elements in your ionized drinking water  [if they're alkaline], and those elements [if they're harmful] are the ones you want to focus on for prefiltration.

Bacteria:

The cheapest way to handle bacteria in your well water is to disinfect it with chlorine. I know — yuck! But, of all the elements, chlorine is the easiest to filter out of your water. The cheapest carbon block [charcoal] filter will filter out the chlorine. Chlorine is unstable, bonds with the carbon in the filter, and thus gets removed from the water. Personally, if it were me, I’d use the chlorine, kill the bacteria, and then hook up a cheap carbon block whole-house filter to get rid of chlorine and sediment prior to going into the house. It will get the chlorine out of all of your water. This would be healthier for bath and shower use. When the water is heated, the chlorine turns into gas and you breathe it in. This kind of inexpensive prefiltering also saves the life of your more expensive water ionizer filter. It is smart to get your sediment out if you have a lot of it. Why have a more expensive filter get all gunked up with sediment when an inexpensive carbon block prefilter can do the job!  Word of caution: Do not disinfect your well-water with chloramine [a mixture of chlorine plus amonia]! Once the chlorine has bonded to the amonia, it becomes very stable, and thus greatly reducing any filter’s effectiveness in getting rid of it. Also, don’t use other disinfectants which may not filter out well. Just use chlorine.

If you just can’t stomach putting chlorine into your well water you will need to do something about bacteria and viruses that could get into your well water. I suggest to purchase a UV [ultraviolet} light and use a Bacteria Prefilter. The bacteria prefilter is actually pretty cheap, but the UV light can be pricey. You can get a small UV filter to just use with your drinking water that is pretty inexpensive. They both need about yearly replacement parts. I would personally not use either a bacteria prefilter or UV light all by itself. The .02M or .01 filter is designed to catch the bacteria, because the pores of the prefilter are so small that bacteria are not supposed to be able to get through. But I'd wonder about this. The Jupiter water ionizers have a .01M filter, and the Jupiter engineers still say that the water should be treated before putting it through the ionizer.

Hydrogen Sulfides:

This is a poisonous sulfer toxin that can enter a well system unpredictably. You may have no sign of it one day and after a heavy rain all of a sudden have it in your well water! The sign for this is a smell of "rotten eggs". The only way right at this time to get rid of this is a special sulphur prefilter, which is inexpensive, but needs to be replaced about yearly. 

Iron: This is a metal that in large amounts can harm your water ionizer. It's probably not great for you either in its inorganic form. The signs for it is a yellow color to your water. It's caused by old cast-iron pipes or other iron things rusting and leaching into your water. Usually you find this situation in older communities or buildings with older plumbing systems that haven't been renovated, but you can find it in wells. You can get an Iron Prefilter for fairly cheaply and the iron and sulphur are filtered out with the same prefilter.

Sand and Sediment: Your ionizer filters will filter out sand and sediment, but these things can clog up your water ionizer filter and cause it to become less effective prematurely. If your source water has a lot of sand or sediment in it, you are wise to get a sediment or carbon block prefilter.  Or there is a small device, called a sand catcher, that you can put into your water line. This has to be emptied constantly though, so that's a hassle.

Lead: This is found in older homes and communities and is a source of "lead poisoning" so needs to be handled for health reasons, but it can be found in wells too. Lead could harm you of course, but it can also harm your water ionizer by interfering with the electrolysis [due to the fact that it's a magnetic metal]. If you have lead in your source water, you should use the Fluoride/Lead/Arsenic prefilter, which is inexpensive.

Heavy Metals: If you have radium in your water or other heavy metals, you can purchase a Heavy Metal prefilter for a fairly inexpensive price.

Is Your Water too Hard? If you don’t want to filter out the calcium in your source water, but it’s a little too hard and is potentially damaging your water ionizer [or reducing the pH/ORP] due to scaling, then the best thing you can use is an Elimination of Scaling Device. Second to that I suggest the Ionizer Armor.  Sometimes water can be so hard that you need a whole house softener. I advise you not to get the sodium or potasium based softeners. These make the water unhealthy for you to drink and you can’t use source-water that has an excess of sodium or potasium with your water ionizer. Both sodium and potasium are electrical conductors, and an excess of these would interfere with the electronics of ionization. This could cause your water ionizer to break down prematurely. They are also not good for the environment either. Too much sodium and potasium dumped into sewer pipes finds its way to rivers and streams and overloads them with sodium and potasium…upsetting the balance of nature. Fresh-water fish do not want salt!

• If you need to soften the water in your whole house, the best thing you can do for your health, the water ionizer, and the environment is to get an all-natural whole house softener that doesn’t use sodium or potasium, such as the Water Dove Whole House Softener.
• If you don’t use a whole-house softener [but have excessively hard water or excessive TDS] I suggest the Chanson Nano-Filtration System or Reverse Osmosis [see below].
• If you do use a whole-house sodium-based or potasium-based water softener, I suggest the Chanson Nano-Filtration System or Reverse Osmosis [see below].

Too many prefilters needed? I offer three “comprehensive filtering systems” for well-water users. These are the most effective filtering methods for well-water users, because they offer complete filtration of everything listed above. These systems are described in the next section. The first two, Reverse osmosis and nano-filtration, are the systems I suggest for people who have excessive water hardness, excessive TDS, and/or are using a whole-house sodium-based water softener. If you are a well-water user and your water is very hard or has excessively high TDS, my #1 recommendation to you is the Chanson Nano-Filtration System [see below], because it’s easier, allows for a better water flow, has no complications to worry about, takes up less space, and produces better-tasting water (no rubber bladder, so no rubber taste). If you use well water, but don’t have problems with water hardness or TDS, then the best filtration system for you would be the Chanson Ultra Filtration, described below. 

The Ultimate Water Ionizer Comprehensive Filtration Systems for Well-Water Users:

#1 Chanson Nano Filtration: [This is what I now consider to be the best, most practical filtration to use with people who are using "softened" water, are using well-water, are on kidney dialysis, who have Aids, other illnesses or just people who want to get the very best, finest filtration of the water. There are no great complications with this system as there are with RO [reverse osmosis]. The Nano-Filtration System will remove up to 99.9% contaminants, it removes salt and 100% of germs and viruses, but will allow some healthy disolved minerals to pass through, which is a good thing. Because it removes salt, it can be used with a whole-house sodium or potasium based water softener. It has almost as fine of a filtration as RO, but you probably won’t need a remineralizer. http://www.alkalinewaterplus.com/nano $655. [yearly replacement costs averages to about $150.]

Reverse Osmosis: If you really want to get everything out of your water and start fresh with only the right organic plant-source minerals and trace minerals for perfect water ionization, then I recommend the Reverse-Osmosis-with-Remineralizer System that was designed by IonLife water experts especially for use with water ionizers. It’s inexpensive and includes the tank and everything you need! [RO is the best filtration, however there are complications with this: slower water flow, lower water pressure, harder to install, more maintenance, might need a plumber and you will NEED to remineralize it before it's healthy to drink.] Reverse osmosis also involves using a rubber bladder, so there might be a rubbery taste to the water. RO will remove up to 99.9% contaminants, it also removes salt and 100% of germs and viruses. Because it removes salt, it can be used with a whole-house sodium or potasium based water softener. http://www.alkalinewaterplus.com/product/RO-System $379.99 [yearly replacement costs averages to about $125.]

Chanson Ultra Filtration: [This is what I now consider to be the 3rd best, practical filtration to use with people who are on kidney dialysis, who have Aids or other illnesses, or are using well-water which is not excessively hard. There are no great complications with this system as there are with RO. The Ultra-Filtration System will remove up to 97% contaminants and over 99% of germs and viruses. It has a .01M filtration and is designed in such a way as to backwash itself, so you will not experience the clogging associated with other .01 filters.  http://www.alkalinewaterplus.com/product/Ultra-Filter-System $285.

What do water ionizer prefilters look like and how do you install them?

In this video I explain and demonstrate the water ionizer prefilter. Water ionizer prefilters can be found on my Other Products page. Most people don't realize that water ionizer prefilters can be benefitial to your health, and your water ionizer's health. This demonstration shows you an up-close look at a single housing with a prefilter inside. Housings for prefilters come single, double and triple for convenience and ease of use. Here's the video:

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Water ionizers filter out a lot of bad things, and some water ionizers have better filters than others. But no water ionizer by itself will filter out every bad thing you might have in your source water. Here are some things that a water ionizer may not filter out:

Bacteria: The Life water ionizer, with it’s UV light, promises to kill the bacteria if it comes through. However I haven’t seen proof as of yet that this does as it claims to do. Also, the UV light only lasts for 5 years and then needs to be replaced. That’s the best case scenario that I have seen so far for handling bacteria. The second best thing I’ve seen to handle bacteria is the Bacteria Filter. This costs $59.95 and requires an additional one-time expense of $49.95 for the pre-filter housing. This would have to be replaced yearly. Other than this, you could always just treat your water. The usual treatment is with Chlorine, which is easy to filter out with any water ionizer filter. Also, coming soon on the Alkaline Water Plus website, look for a UV light simple in-line add on system that costs under $200. start up costs plus the light needs to be replaced yearly for about $60.00. I will be offering this very soon!

Hydrogen Sulfides: This is a poisonous sulfer toxin that can enter a well system unpredictably. You may have no sign of it one day and after a heavy rain all of a sudden have it in your well water! The sign for this is a smell of “rotten eggs”. The only way right at this time to get rid of this is a special sulphur prefilter, which costs $69.00 and has to be replaced about yearly. [Please note: you would also need a pre-filter housing, which is a one-time cost of $49.95.]

Iron: This is a metal that in large amounts can harm your water ionizer. It’s probably not great for your health either [because it's not organic]. The signs for it is a yellow color to your water. It’s caused by old cast-iron pipes rusting and leaching into your water. Usually you find this situation in older communities or buildings with older plumbing systems that haven’t been renovated. You can get an Iron Prefilter for %59.99.

Sand and Sediment: Your ionizer filters will filter out sand and sediment, but these things can clog up your water ionizer filter and cause it to become less effective prematurely. If your source water has a lot of sand or sediment in it, you are wise to get a sediment prefilter. The filter cost is about $50.00 and should be replaced ~yearly.

Fluoride: Two water ionizer companies have now added filter media to their filters to filter out Fluoride [Jupiter Biostone Plus filter and the KYK filter]. Fluoride is usually added to municipal water and has been linked to Altzheimers, learning disabilities and other health hazards…and is the subject of much debate. If you need or want Fluoride removed from your water and don’t have the two filters mentioned, you can get a Fluoride prefilter for about $35.00 [plus housing is needed].

Lead: This is found in older homes and communities and is a source of “lead poisoning” so needs to be handled for health reasons, but lead also could harm your water ionizer by interfering with the electrolysis [due to the fact that it's a magnetic metal]. If you have lead in your source water, you should use the Fluoride/Lead/Arsenic prefilter, which is about $35.00 [plus housing is needed].

Heavy Metals: If you have radium in your water or other heavy metals, you can purchase a Heavy Metal prefilter for $79.95 [plus housing is needed].

Chloramine: If your water ionizer doesn’t filter chloramine [chlorine + amonia] which is now the disinfectant of choice for many municipalities, then you can purchase a Chloramine prefilter for 79.95 [plus housing is needed].

Is Your Water too Hard? If you don’t want to filter out the calcium in your source water, but it’s too hard and is potentially damaging your water ionizer [or reducing the pH/ORP] due to scaling, then the best thing you can use is an Elimination of Scaling Device. Second to that I suggest the Ionizer Armor. If you need or want to filter out some of the excess calcium, then you can get a Scale-Block Prefilter.

Too many prefilters needed? If you really want to get everything out of your water and start fresh with only the right organic plant-source minerals and trace minerals for perfect water ionization, then I recommend the Reverse-Osmosis-with-Remineralizer System that was designed by IonLife water experts especially for use with water ionizers. It’s only $375.00 & includes the tank and everything! I have one and I think it’s fantastic!Wishing You Water Wellness!
Sincerely,
Cathleen LoGrasso
Blog-Master
Email Us: Support@alkaline-water-plus.info
Website Home: http://www.alkalinewaterplus.com
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Why Would You do anything else With a Water Ionizer other than Ionize Your Water?

One popular thing is to use a prefilter with a water ionizer. This is needed if you live in an area that has either very hard or very soft water. With very hard water there are things you can get which help extend the life of your water ionizer. One such thing is a scale-block prefilter that can remove some of the hard water elements from your water prior to it entering and potentially damaging your water ionizer. There are two other products that I recommend even more than the scale-block prefilter now [because they're cheaper and last longer]. These devices can really help with hard water problems, they’re all natural, and they don’t add anything to your water. They are: the Ionizer Armor, and the EOS Anti-Scaling Device. With very soft water or RO (reverse osmosis) what I recommend is called a remineralizer cartridge [which adds only natural, organic, plant-source calcite & coral calcium, with 70+ organic plant-source trace minerals]. The Remineralizer Kit comes with an ordinary prefilter housing.

I’ve devised the following chart for you to look at if you are uncertain of exactly what, when and why you would add any extra prefilters or gadgets into your line before your water ionizer. Since water ionizers are so expensive, this is of great interest [or should be] to people everywhere who own a water ionizer. Here’s the chart:

 Hope this helps!

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