Alkaline Water News [Water Wellness]

Water ionizers filter out a lot of bad things, and some water ionizers have better filters than others. But no water ionizer by itself will filter out every bad thing you might have in your source water. Here are some things that a water ionizer may not filter out:

Bacteria: The Life water ionizer, with it’s UV light, promises to kill the bacteria if it comes through. However I haven’t seen proof as of yet that this does as it claims to do. Also, the UV light only lasts for 5 years and then needs to be replaced. That’s the best case scenario that I have seen so far for handling bacteria. The second best thing I’ve seen to handle bacteria is the Bacteria Filter. This costs $59.95 and requires an additional one-time expense of $49.95 for the pre-filter housing. This would have to be replaced yearly. Other than this, you could always just treat your water. The usual treatment is with Chlorine, which is easy to filter out with any water ionizer filter. Also, coming soon on the Alkaline Water Plus website, look for a UV light simple in-line add on system that costs under $200. start up costs plus the light needs to be replaced yearly for about $60.00. I will be offering this very soon!

Hydrogen Sulfides: This is a poisonous sulfer toxin that can enter a well system unpredictably. You may have no sign of it one day and after a heavy rain all of a sudden have it in your well water! The sign for this is a smell of “rotten eggs”. The only way right at this time to get rid of this is a special sulphur prefilter, which costs $69.00 and has to be replaced about yearly. [Please note: you would also need a pre-filter housing, which is a one-time cost of $49.95.]

Iron: This is a metal that in large amounts can harm your water ionizer. It’s probably not great for your health either [because it's not organic]. The signs for it is a yellow color to your water. It’s caused by old cast-iron pipes rusting and leaching into your water. Usually you find this situation in older communities or buildings with older plumbing systems that haven’t been renovated. You can get an Iron Prefilter for %59.99.

Sand and Sediment: Your ionizer filters will filter out sand and sediment, but these things can clog up your water ionizer filter and cause it to become less effective prematurely. If your source water has a lot of sand or sediment in it, you are wise to get a sediment prefilter. The filter cost is about $50.00 and should be replaced ~yearly.

Fluoride: Two water ionizer companies have now added filter media to their filters to filter out Fluoride [Jupiter Biostone Plus filter and the KYK filter]. Fluoride is usually added to municipal water and has been linked to Altzheimers, learning disabilities and other health hazards…and is the subject of much debate. If you need or want Fluoride removed from your water and don’t have the two filters mentioned, you can get a Fluoride prefilter for about $35.00 [plus housing is needed].

Lead: This is found in older homes and communities and is a source of “lead poisoning” so needs to be handled for health reasons, but lead also could harm your water ionizer by interfering with the electrolysis [due to the fact that it's a magnetic metal]. If you have lead in your source water, you should use the Fluoride/Lead/Arsenic prefilter, which is about $35.00 [plus housing is needed].

Heavy Metals: If you have radium in your water or other heavy metals, you can purchase a Heavy Metal prefilter for $79.95 [plus housing is needed].

Chloramine: If your water ionizer doesn’t filter chloramine [chlorine + amonia] which is now the disinfectant of choice for many municipalities, then you can purchase a Chloramine prefilter for 79.95 [plus housing is needed].

Is Your Water too Hard? If you don’t want to filter out the calcium in your source water, but it’s too hard and is potentially damaging your water ionizer [or reducing the pH/ORP] due to scaling, then the best thing you can use is an Elimination of Scaling Device. Second to that I suggest the Ionizer Armor. If you need or want to filter out some of the excess calcium, then you can get a Scale-Block Prefilter.

Too many prefilters needed? If you really want to get everything out of your water and start fresh with only the right organic plant-source minerals and trace minerals for perfect water ionization, then I recommend the Reverse-Osmosis-with-Remineralizer System that was designed by IonLife water experts especially for use with water ionizers. It’s only $375.00 & includes the tank and everything! I have one and I think it’s fantastic!Wishing You Water Wellness!
Sincerely,
Cathleen LoGrasso
Blog-Master
Email Us: Support@alkaline-water-plus.info
Website Home: http://www.alkalinewaterplus.com
Copyright © 2006 – 2009 Alkaline Water Plus
Call for a “Best Price Quote”
1-888-MY-ALKALINE

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It is rare that you will ever see the Enagic water ionizer in a comparison water ionizer test. Most Enagic dealers are reluctant to even want to see comparison testing. So I feel priveledged to bring these videos to you.

We tested and compared the Enagic SD 501, the Melody, the Athena, the Tyent Turbo, & the KYK Genesis 7-Plate water ionizers!

Throughout this testing there was an overall trend toward the…

Enagic not having the best quality of drinking water, but having a better ability to get the highest/lowest pH for non-drinking water [used for cleaning]. 

*See below for a good explanation of how the best quality of drinking water  for water ionizers is determined. 

I couldn’t test them all at once, so I split the testing up into two groups of three water ionizers. Each group was focused on testing two water ionizers against the Enagic [since I don't often get a chance to test the Enagic, I wanted to make sure all four of my water ionizers had a chance to be tested with the Enagic].

I’ve highlighted in red the winning water ionizer score from each group of tests. Please note: You can’t very well compare a water ionizer from group 1 to group 2, unfortunately, because of too many variables, but if you look at the Enagic as the focal point you can get an idea of how they compare. 

Comparing the Enagic, Athena, Melody, Tyent & KYK Water Ionizers

Level 3 – Drinking Water

Group 1: the Enagic, Tyent & KYK @ Level 3 or Kangen Water 9.5

Group 2: the Enagic, Athena & Melody @ Level 3 or Kangen Water 9.5

Level 3 – Drinking Water [Cathie’s Analysis]: In the above video and chart for Ionized Water at Level 3 it can be seen that the winner for healthiest [rH] drinking water [ionized water at Level 3 for Group 1 is the Tyent, and for Group 2 it’s the Athena. The 11.05 pH, however, is probably too high to drink for most people.

Level  4 – The Extremes

Group 1: Enagic, Tyent & KYK @ Level 4 or Strongest Level

Group 2: Enagic, Athena & Melody Level 4 or Strongest Level

Level 4: You can see in the above video and charts that the Enagic for these tests is getting the  “Low Acid”  in both videos and the Enagic gets the “High Alkaline” in the 2^nd video [with the Tyent beating the Enagic in Highest Alkaline in the 1^st video]

Level 2 – Drinking Water

Group 1: Enagic, Tyent & KYK Level 2 or Kangen Water 9.0

Group 2: Athena & Melody Level 2 or Kangen Water 9.0

Level 2: Please Note: Unfortunately the battery ran out at the end, so we tested Group 1 on Levels 2 and 1 off-video and have the results here. We were using a faster flow rate. As the testing went on, the Enagic would not accept slow flow rates and the voice would tell us to increase the flow rate. We increased it for the three we were testing at the time. You can see that flow rate makes a big difference in the outcome of the testing, and because of that we really can’t compare the ionizers using one flow rate with the ones using another. This is a good example of how tricky this testing is!

In this group of tests the Tyent wins for best rH in Group 1 and the Athena wins for Group 2’s best rH at drinking water Level 2

Level 1 – Intro-Level Water

Group 1: Enagic, Tyent & KYK Level 1 or Kangen Water 8.5

Group 2: Enagic, Athena & Melody Level 1 or Kangen Water 8.5

Level 1: Please Note: Unfortunately the battery ran out at the end, so we tested Group 1 on Levels 2 and 1 off-video and have the results here. We were using a faster flow rate. As the testing went on, the Enagic would not accept slow flow rates and the voice would tell us to increase the flow rate. We increased it for the three we were testing at the time. You can see that flow rate makes a big difference in the outcome of the testing, and because of that we really can’t compare the ionizers using one flow rate with the ones using another. This is a good example of how tricky this testing is!

In this group of tests, the Enagic wins for best rH in Group 1 and the Athena wins for Group 2’s best rH at drinking water level 1.

One Day Later:

After 20 hours: After 20 hours of storing the Level 3 ionized water from Group 1 [above] the following videos were done. This video shows how all of the water ionizers lost a great deal of ORP in just 20 hours.

    Group 1: Enagic, Tyent & KYK

[Level 3 Stored/Refrigerated for 20 Hours]

[Reference to video, above] How did you like that container I showed you at the end of that last video? I think I might start selling those on my website…they’re so cool!

If you have ever heard that Enagic, Kangen Water, stores better or longer than the other ionized water, I’d say this video debunks that.  

Wishing You Water Wellness!
Sincerely,
Cathleen LoGrasso
Blog-Master
Email Us: Support@alkaline-water-plus.info
Website Home: http://www.alkalinewaterplus.com
Copyright © 2006 – 2009 Alkaline Water Plus
Call for a “Best Price Quote”
1-888-MY-ALKALINE

Note: These water ionizer comparison tests were conducted in St. Peters, MO, which has a tap water which is 8.46 pH and +195 ORP
*The rH of a solution is based on a formula applied to the pH and ORP to arrive at the relation between the level of ORP to the level of pH. It is the best measure of the healthiness of that ionized water. I always consider the rH to be the most important measure to look at in any water ionizer comparison test.

• Here’s an example: if you have two water ionizers producing water at a pH of 9.5, and one has an ORP of -300 and the other has an ORP of -400, then the one with -400 is producing water at a healthier overall quality. Most people testing water ionizers don’t get the exact same pH readings for all the water ionizers tested. So the rH formula is necessary to really see which water ionizer is producing the healthier water. The formula is a very simple one, and anyone comparing water ionizers should look at the rH of the water at the drinking water levels if they are trying to figure out which water ionizer is best. Because ORP is a very tricky measure to get and ORP meters can vary from test to test [depending on how well or frequently they're cleaned, source water and other factors] it’s important to only compare the ORP or rH of water ionizers tested in one setting by the same tester. RH is measured on a scale of 0 to 42, with 0 being the healthiest and 42 the unhealthiest. Tap water in St. Louis is usually around 30 – 35 rH. Any water under 28 rH is considered “reducing” and so is healthy for you.
• “The relative hydrogen scale was first proposed by Clark in 1923 to the scientific community (mostly inorganic chemists) as a means of measuring the true reducing power of hydrogen present in an aqueous solution…”* Go to this website to see this article and get a more thorough and scientific explanation of rH: http://h-minus-ion.vpinf.com/rH-score-1.html

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In the following videos and chart I am comparing the Athena and Melody water ionizers. These water ionizers are both Jupiter water ionizers.

Jupiter is a well-known brand name for medical-grade water ionizers that you can trust for their quality and dependability.

The Jupiter Athena water ionizer is the high-end Jupiter model which has DARC cleaning [best internal self-cleaning of all of the water ionizers], mesh plates and dual filtration, and sells for $2095.00 verses the Melody water ionizer [the moderately priced Jupiter water ionizer, which cleans itself great, is electro-plated [solid plates which are platinum-coated with peaks and groves for greater surface area for better electrolysis], and sells for $1395.00]. The Melody often comes very close in water ionizer  comparison tests, so I think it’s a great choice for anyone on a budget. The Lifetime Warranty makes either of these water ionizers an even sweeter deal!

Athena vs Melody Water Ionizer Comparisons

Here’s my analysis: It looks like the Athena beats the Melody in every level for rH [water drinking healthiness per level of pH], but the Melody is testing very good.  They are both producing very healthy water! I don’t think you could go wrong with purchacing either of these water ionizers.

The healthiness of the water is measured a few ways. I’ll explain:

The aging body tends to become more and more acidic as life goes on [especially if we eat junk food or have an acidic diet over a period of years]. For this reason, we need water which is alkaline, so we can replenish our buffers to ward against the tendancy toward acidity. Otherwise our cells have no way of getting rid of their toxins. So pH is a factor in the healthiness of water.

• Water ionizers produce a high alkaline pH. Even the water ionizer I purchased 17 years ago produced a nice high pH. Of course you don’t need the extremely high pH [that some water ionizers produce] for drinking purposes. Drinking water at a moderately high pH can help alkalize your body and get rid of the acidic wastes that have built up in your cells. 
• Oxidation is also a factor in the health of one’s body. Like a cut apple that turns brown, our cells tend to become over oxidized. I don’t know if the cells turn brown or not, but damage of one kind or another [commonly referred to as free-radical damage] happens when the cells are oxidized. To combat the body’s tendancy toward free-radical damage, theoretically, one would consume antioxidants. A way to test the antioxidant quality of a liquid is to measure its ORP [Oxidation Reduction Potential]. The more negative the ORP, the better. Any ORP with a greater negativity than -300 is considered “medical grade” ORP.
• • My personal experience with drinking water that has a high negative ORP [between -300 and -600] is that things like wrinkles and spider veins reduce when you drink water that has a higher negative ORP. I’m sure that the ORP is good for other things as well; basically anything that you would take antioxidants for would benefit from the consumption of water with a high negative ORP. 
• The rH [relative Hydrogen] of a solution is based on a formula applied to the pH and ORP to arrive at the relation between the level of ORP to the level of pH. It is the best measure of the healthiness of that ionized water. I always consider the rH to be the most important measure to look at in any water ionizer comparison test.
  • Here’s an example: if you have two water ionizers producing water at a pH of 9.5, and one has an ORP of -300 and the other has an ORP of -400, then the one with -400 is producing water at a healthier overall quality. Most people testing water ionizers don’t get the exact same pH readings for all the water ionizers tested. So the rH formula is necessary to really see which water ionizer is producing the healthier water. The formula is a very simple one, and anyone comparing water ionizers should look at the rH of the water at the drinking water levels if they are trying to figure out which water ionizer is best. Because ORP is a very tricky measure to get and ORP meters can vary from test to test [depending on how well or frequently they're cleaned, source water and other factors] it’s important to only compare the ORP or rH of water ionizers tested in one setting by the same tester. RH is measured on a scale of 0 to 42, with 0 being the healthiest and 42 the unhealthiest. Tap water in St. Louis is usually around 30 – 35 rH. Any water under 28 rH is considered “reducing” and so is healthy for you.
  • “The relative hydrogen scale was first proposed by Clark in 1923 to the scientific community (mostly inorganic chemists) as a means of measuring the true reducing power of hydrogen present in an aqueous solution…”*  Go to this website to see this article and get a more thorough and scientific explanation of rH: http://h-minus-ion.vpinf.com/rH-score-1.html

Wishing You Water Wellness!
Sincerely,
Cathleen LoGrasso
Blog-Master

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I’m finally able to…

Test and Compare the Athena Water Ionizer with Other Water Ionizers!

The Athena water ionizer has a tradition of winning in water ionizer comparison tests. However I have never tested it myself until today. Also to my knowledge the Athena water ionizer has never been tested against the Tyent Turbo water ionizer. So today I think I’m the first person showing publicly the testing of the Jupiter Athena water ionizer vs the Tyent Turbo! I thought it was important to test the Tyent water ionizer against the Athena first, because the Tyent Turbo has been up till now — the winner, in the ability to get the highest rH.

Previously the Tyent Turbo [in my own testing] has been also beating the KYK and the Melody in its ability to get the lowest acidity and the highest alkalinity ["the Extremes" ...as I call it]…although the KYK and Melody come close. I personally don’t care about the extremes, but some people do. They want the ability to get the lowest acid possible or the highest alkaline possible.

What I care about and think is the most important thing to look for in a water ionizer is the Level 3 “drinking water” rH. The rH is a measure of the “relative Hydrogen” of the ionized water and is showing you how high of an ORP is that ionizer able to give you relative to the pH level of the water tested. [see below for a more scientific explanation] The rH is better for you when the number is lower, or the closer to zero – the better [on a scale of 0 to 42].

This three-part series of videos starts at level 3 in the first video and then Level 4 for the Athena and the “Turbo Level” for the Tyent is demonstrated in videos 2 and 3. Here are the videos:

The following chart shows the pH, ORP, rH and acid output for the Athena water ionizer at Level 3/4 and the Tyent water ionizer at Level 3 and Turbo levels.

Tyent vs Athena Water Ionizer Comparisons

• rH [relative Hydrogen]…which is the overall healthiness of the alkaline ionized water, basically. However, the Athena and Tyent are very close and so the Athena didn’t beat by much.
• the warranty — the Athena has a Lifetime warranty standard with every water ionizer purchase [you don't have to pay extra] vs the Tyent with a 20-year [plates] and 10-year extended warranty that you can purchase.
• the price — the Athena costs $2095.00 and the Tyent Turbo [with 10-year extended warranty] costs $2495 + 195 = $2690.00.  [Keep in mind, though that you get some free gifts with the Tyent purchase worth about $300.00]…but even with the free gifts, the Athena still wins.

The Tyent Turbo beats the Athena in the following…

• ability to produce the lower acid output at both levels 3 and Turbo-level. This is significant if what you want is a water ionizer that can do this. The acid water at the lowest setting for the Tyent is still not low enough [in this test] to kill germs — I don’t think. [I do plan to test this sometime]. What I have heard is that the acidity needs to be around 2.5 pH to kill germs [or at least under 3]…but I won’t know this for sure until I test it.
• the ability to produce a higher alkalinity. This is only slightly higher though…almost equal. Both water ionizers appeared to be producing a high enough alkalinity to emulsify oils [which will be the subject of another test.

I will be testing the Athena against the Tyent, KYK, Melody and Enagic quite a bit in the next week or two...so stay tuned!

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I have recently posted several videos showing the testing of the KYK Genesis 7-Plate water ionizer vs the Tyent Turbo and this is the tail end of that testing. In the first video I test the KYK vs Turbo at level 3 and in the 2nd video I test both water ionizers at Level 4 [or in the case of the Tyent Turbo, it's called the Turbo level].

In the KYK the level 4 wattage goes up as high as 200 watts and in the Turbo it goes up to 280 watts. That’s a considerable difference in the highest wattage capacity and I wanted to see how much of a difference it made in the output of ionized water.

It should be noted that no water ionizer company recommends that drinking water should be at the highest alkaline levels as one would get at Level 4. The only real reason to want your water ionizer to output that high of an alkaline level is for cleaning greasy surfaces or soaking the oily pesticides off your vegetables.

That having been said, here are the videos:

Now, here’s the chart showing the water ionizer comparison results shown in the videos:

My evaluation is this:

In all of the testing I’ve done, the Tyent Turbo out performs the KYK Genesis water ionizer in:

•  the ability to achieve the greatest pH [significant if you want to soak pesticides off of your vegetables],
• the ability to achieve the lowest acidity output [from the bottom hose]. This is significant if you want to disinfect for germs.
• The Tyent Turbo is also in the better rH at level 3. Both water ionizers are equal in rH at level 4, however the rH at level 4 is not applicable [because rH refers to the drinking water healthiness -- and you don't drink ionized water at level 4].

I hope that all makes sense! One further comment is that both water ionizers are very close in comparison to each other. I don’t think the differences are very significant. The Tyent got better results in my various series of comparison tests, but did not win by much. It should also be noted that the cost of the Tyent Turbo is now $2495.00, and the cost of the KYK Genesis 7-Plate is now $1695.00. I always look at cost when I make my water ionizer comparisons. It is something to consider.

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When you freeze ionized water, what does that process do to the ionized water?

Taking ionized water directly from a water ionizer and pouring it into ice cube trays, and then freezing it…will your pH and ORP from ionization cancel out, reduce, or stay the same? And if so, how much?

In these videos, I demonstrate filling ice cube trays with ionized water from Level 3 of my Tyent 7070 water ionizer at 11.25 pH and -853 ORP.  When the cubes were frozen, they were removed, placed in a cup and allowed to thaw out.

The 2nd video shows the testing of the water after thawing out.

As you can see in the videos, the fresh ionized water taken directly from the water ionizer had a high pH and ORP, yet, when frozen and thawed, the pH reduced from 11.25 to 9.96 [still alkaline, but greatly reduced.] The ORP was even more drastic of a reduction. It went from -853 to +102 [a 955 point rise!].

Conclusion: The product of frozen ionized water is still filtered water, still alkaline even though greatly reduced, and has changed vectors to a positive ORP. Therefore…

If you’re making ice, go ahead and use your strongest alkaline setting! Also… ice is far less healthy for you than fresh ionized water straight from the water ionizer.

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I’ve been comparing the KYK and Tyent water ionizers in my home in St. Louis, but I had the opportunity to take these two water ionizers with me on a trip last week so was able to compare them in South Carolina [Hilton Head Island area] which has a much different source water.

The tap water in St. Louis is a pH of 10 and ORP of +350 [usually] and the tap water in South Carolina at my dad’s house was 7.76 pH and +412 ORP. The differences between these two source waters were so great that I was very curious…

Would my KYK and Tyent Water Ionizers do as well in So. Carolina as in St. Louis? and…

How would the KYK and Tyent Water Ionizers compare with each other using the South Carolina source water?

Here are the videos and the chart of water ionizer comparisons:

Water Ionizers Compared

KYK & Tyent Turbo

in South Carolina

My analysis of this is:

The Tyent and KYK are practically identical, however the Tyent Turbo at every level was a tiny bit better than the KYK Genesis 7 Plate.

Other Notes:

• They both performed fantastically! I was so impressed, especially since the source water was so much different than St. Louis!
• The KYK required more button-pushing to operate.
• They both shut off for cleaning [causing me to wait while they cleaned themselves] — not too much time was spent on this though.
• They both went into auto self-cleaning when I turned on the power supply.

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